Repairing a Commodore 1084S Power Switch

The power switch of the Commodore 1084S tends to break easily. To replace it, you will need a standard “Preh TV3” switch (which can be found online), a screwdriver, a soldering iron, desoldering braid, and some basic soldering skills.

At the back, there are four screws in the corners:

Three more screws at the back panel:

And four at the bottom:

When lifting the back piece, be careful not to rip off the speaker wires. You only need to lift it a bit, and you can have it rest on the back panel. Do not kill yourself touching any of the high voltage parts!

The switch is located at the top left of the board and has six solder points.

This is what your new switch should look like:

Take some desoldering braid and loosen it a little…

…so you can put a pin of the switch through it. Then heat it with the soldering iron.

After desoldering all six solder points, it should look like this:

You should now be able to remove the old switch.

Add the plastic button to the new switch, and if it has two extra legs in the middle, bend them down a little.

Put the new switch in place and make sure all six pins go through the holes.

Solder all the pins!

When putting the monitor back together, you have to make sure to fit the two plastic “rails” so that they hold the board and their pins go through the holes in the bottom part.

When sliding the back part back on, you might need a second person holding the rails.

Now put the screws back in, and you’re done!

2 thoughts on “Repairing a Commodore 1084S Power Switch”

  1. I just did this to my Commodore 1084S-P1. Thank you the instructions are very helpful.
    My replacement switch didn’t come with the metal piece at the end which slides into the square slot so I just reused the one that was already attached to the old power switch once it was removed.
    Also I found it easier to loosen the panel that holds the AC power in place, it’s only two screws and a solder point.
    The hardest bit was then getting the piece of metal onto the replacement switch, I had to bend the metal (it was shaped a bit like a square pincer) until I could slide it on, then bend it back around so it was tight.


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